Making Ferran Adria's Mango caviar with Texturas from El Bulli Taller - Part 2

The first thing I did was make the mango liquid by combining three fresh mangoes that had been peeled and chopped. To that I added some store bought mango juice, the juice of one fresh orange and the zest of that same orange so the total weight is around 500 grams. I found after making this a few times you really need to have this liquid have an intense taste especially when the final preparation is going to be as caviar since you are going to use it in such small quantities.

To strain it I tried to use a chinois (china cap) but found that too much of the mango pulp was able to make it through the mesh and it made the final products too pulpy. So I got a 1.3 liter / 400 microns Superbag. The Superbag is a very fine but very strong mesh bag that lets you grab a hold of it and press out nothing but the mango juice and leave 100% of the pulp behind in the bag. As soon as I changed to this the final product got much much better as it was pure liquid.

Once you have the liquid you have to create a mixture of citric acid and sodium alginate which will serve as the thickener and you heat it and then add to the mango liquid. Let it stand at room temperature for 2 hours. Once it is ready you have to quickly make a calcium salt bath that you will drop the mango liquid into.


I first loaded the liquid into one of the syringe's and started to drop it into the water. I quickly learned the first trick which is to submerge a wire strainer in the calcium salt water and drop the mango liquid into the strainer. You do this so the caviar doesn't scatter everywhere making it impossible to get it all out of the water.


Once I learned that trick I concentrated on how long the caviar started in the calcium salt water because it is too short the spheres won't hold up when you take them out and if it too long then the caviar will solidify and you will lose the liquid center. I ended up doing one syringe at a time and letting it soak for 90 seconds got the consistency I wanted. Once they are done remove them from the calcium salt water and then rinse them in clean water to get the salts off the exterior and to stop the chemical process. They only need to be in there for a few seconds and then transfer them to a paper towel to get the excess water off.


Feeling confident from my success with the caviar I moved on to making the larger more ravioli sized spheres. These were even easier since you are dealing with fewer spheres and you can create more of them at a time. The process, steps and timing are exactly the same. I actually liked these better than the caviar because of the amount of liquid in the pastaless ravioli creates a mouth sensation unlike anything else I have ever eaten.


I ended up serving the caviar over a vanilla panna cotta and everyone loved it since you would eat a little caviar with every bite. I served the pastaless ravioli by themselves with a little dried peaches and red Hawaiian sea salt.


Making this could not have been easier and the Mr. Wizard reaction when you make it in front of your guests is great. As soon as I was done with this I launched into the rest of their recipes and then expanding out to my own variations. So if you have every been drawn to avant guard cooking or Ferran's work this is the perfect entrance into that world.

Dinosaur BBQ

So if I am going to talk about restaurants I have to start with the one I have been in love with for over 16 years - Dinosaur BBQ. It is as close as I get to religion and I frequent this temple of BBQ located two blocks north of the world famous Cotton Club in West Harlem.

The Dinosaur Bar-B-Q was started in 1983 by three bikers, bound together by the love of good food, a 55 gallon drum cut in half and for five years traveled motorcycle shows, fairs, and festivals up and down the east coast selling BBQ. In 1988, burnt out from the road, they settled into downtown Syracuse and opened up as a take out BBQ joint. By 1990 they doubled their space added a bar and the Dinosaur I love was born. I landed at college in Syracuse in 1991 and over the next four years Dinosaur was the backdrop for a lot of my best college memories. Give me amazing BBQ, a jukebox full of great blues and good friends and I am in heaven.

For the outpost in NYC parking can be a little tricky. I would try and find a spot on the street if you can, but if that fails there is a small but nice indoor parking lot half way down the block on 131st Street which only charges $10 no matter how long you stay. Do not park across the street at the Fariway grocery store parking lot which will be tempting because they will have your car booted or towed in a heartbeat - they don't play around.

You need to have reservations no matter what time of day you want to go because there is always a wait even though it is a large restaurant. Friday and Saturday nights are the worst when you will wait 20-30 minutes with reservations and 2-3+ hours without them. I find the best time to be lunch on Saturday or Sunday when the crowds are thinner.

The food is a mix of classic BBQ and southern fare usually done with enough of a twist to make it unique. I recommend starting with either the fried green tomatoes or the chili on the half shell. Their AK Chili (ass kicking) is probably the best I have ever had and really hits the spot on a cold New York day. For dinner I would go with either the ribs or the hamburger. The ribs are large pork ribs done with a dry rub and smoked to perfection. Strange it sounds, their hamburger is probably the best I have ever had and get it with their thick cut smoked bacon. Pair either of those with a Saranac root beer on draft and you will be all set.

Once you have had the food you should grab two things on your way out the door. Some of their sauce and a copy of "Dinosaur Bar-B-Que: An American Roadhouse" which has over 100 of their recipes and techniques. It has all the flavor and humor you find in the restaurant and has been the cornerstone of cookbook collection since it came out. So run don't walk to Dinosaur ASAP!